This blog is for anyone who loves climbing and wants to get better at it.
About a year and a half ago I noticed that I had essentially stopped getting better at climbing. I had ridden out the first few months of newbie gains and I was completely stuck. I kept going to the gym a few times a week and I kept getting perilously freaked out every time I sport climbed outside. I had hit a wall, no pun intended.
I realized that there was a better way to spend my time at the gym. Showing up and doing whatever seemed like a good idea was no longer cutting it. I decided to start training in an organized way, and I can tell you with certainty that it has made a huge difference.
Since starting to train, my outdooor onsights have increased from 5.9 to 5.11a. Additionally, I was able to increase my outdoor redpoint ability from 5.10a to 5.11d in just over a year.
For reference, here are some stats about me:
- full-time job, 45 minute commute to/from work
- Got a B in gym class
- Nearest sport crag is about 5 hours away
- In my previous home town, my commute to the gym was 90 minutes round trip (1 hour from work, 30 minutes back home)
- no insane upbringing as a prodigy gymnast, dancer, or anything else that might advantage me (also hideously bad at any sport involving a ball)
- Height: 5’4″, Ape index: +1″ (not tall)
- 3.5 years of climbing experience starting at age 19.
- Completed three training cycles of The Rock Prodigy Program (with varying levels of success/struggle/messing things up/learning from mistakes)
- In-progress following Steve Bechtel’s Logical Progression program
- 3 years ago I could not do a single pullup. I can now do more than 10.
Although I’m not climbing 14d, I have personal expertise in taking all of the wonderful training information that is available to us, applying it, and effectively improving my climbing abilities within the time constraints that my life allows. So join me as I learn to get better at climbing and help you do that too.