Q&A With Brian Suntay: 5.14 crusher and weekday engineer

I first found out about Brian Suntay when his tag line on the TrainingBeta blog caught my eye–“Ohio-based engineer crushing 5.14 at the Red River Gorge and Rifle”. As an Ohio Native (and a fellow engineer) I was very psyched to find a kindred spirit in the climbing community who is climbing at such a high level.

Brian is a very accomplished climber and has an extremely impressive resume. He has completed routes up through 5.14 in the Red and many 5.13+ routes in Rifle. He started climbing in college and predominantly trains out of his basement to cut down on the commute to the gym. If you haven’t read his post on Trainingbeta, I would recommend it–it will be especially helpful to read in the context of this interview.

Brian taking down Transworld Depravity, 5.14a at the Red River Gorge. Photo by Andy Wickstrom.

Check out Brian’s article here. 

I had the pleasure of picking Brian’s brain on some topics I had been wondering about and I got to discuss my project at the Red with him as well. Brian has some awesome insights and I hope you all get a lot out of this. I know I did.

S:  Can you take me through a brief history of your climbing and training? How long did it take you to progress through the grades? When did you start training?

B: I’ve been climbing for about 12 years so it’s hard for me to remember how long it took to break through the grades.  I started when I was in college and I didn’t really train for it the first few years other than climbing in the gym and climbing outside.  Fortunately for me, climbing came pretty naturally.  I pretty much worked my way up the grades up to 5.13a by climbing outside, I think.  I remember training for a route in the Madness cave that I really wanted to do, so I think that’s when I really started training.  I followed a typical periodized training plan for quite a while.  I didn’t really know any better and it worked for the most part.  Probably over the last few years I switched it up a bit based on new knowledge I gained from kettlebell training and because I wanted to train a little less due to the amount of free time I had and to allow for other activities.  And, since I’ve been training for a little while now, I kinda know what works and doesn’t work for me.  So now I pretty much just make my own training programs.

Brian’s Thoughts on Deadlifting for Climbing

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